Gaps and seams can be filled with a variety of materials. Ultimately what you use will depend on availability and experience.
- Green stuff or white stuff – in a tube, typical is Squadron or Tamiya. Has to be sanded but can be smoothed with some chemicals (use in a ventilated area). Tends to shrink with time so really only good on small gaps.
- Water based pastes – Vallejo or Perfect Plastic Putty. Easy to apply, water based, can smooth with a wet finger or cotton bud before it completely dries. Does shrink a tiny bit. Best on small gaps.
- Mr Surfacer 500. Essentially a thick primer. Can be thinned with a mix of lacquer thinner and IPA for use as a primer but needs to be sanded. Good for filling scratches.
- 2 part epoxy clay like Milliput. Mix a small amount, roll into a noodle just bigger than gap, squeeze in, smooth with a wet finger (wet w water). Cures in about 24 hours, sand smooth. Can be scribed to restore details.
- Sprue and glue mix. Take a half full bottle of liquid glue and add sprue until a past is created. Apply to gaps and let cure. Takes a while to cure fully (1-2 days) but is just like plastic when fully cured.
- Sheet plastic plus liquid filler. Good for large gaps.
- Superglue (CA) plus baking soda. Mix about 1:1 using medium viscosity CA and apply. Dries quickly and ready to sand. Do not let it cure 24 hours or it becomes much harder than the plastic and is less sandable. Does not shrink. Easy to cut new panel lines into.
My preference is CA+soda (or baby powder) for smaller gaps, plastic sheet with a sprue&glue mix for large ones. Occasionally I will use Perfect Plastic Putty to soften a deep or wide panel line as the shrinking is beneficial. For sanding marks, either Mr Surfacer or sprue goo are my two preferences, with sprue goo being my first choice.
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